Cotsarelis, an expert in epithelial stem cells such as those found in the skin, was studying how skin heals and noticed that new hair follicles seemed to be forming in the middle of some of some wounds. He learned that when the skins top layers were removed, some cells within the wound revert to a more primitive state (what he calls an embryonic window) from which they can develop into either hair or skin. With more research, says Zohar, Cotsarelis found that he could actually push them to one direction or another. In a widely read Nature paper published last May, Cotsarelis showed for the first time that its possible to create new hair follicles in adult mammalsand to shut down hair growth. He could even grow thicker, darker hair.
Zohar says Follica has further developed this work and filed additional patents to protect the technology. Whats so beautiful about the approach, she says, is that translating it into a treatment for humans involves only devices and drugs that are already on the market. A doctor would first use a microdermabrasion tool, say, or a laser to remove the top layers of the skinas is already commonly done in a number of dermatologic and cosmetic proceduresknocking some cells back into a primitive state. The doctor can then use this newly created therapeutic window to inject drugs that push the cells to develop along one pathway or another and grow hair or skin. Zohar wont reveal what drugs Follica is using, except to say that they are small molecule drugs normally taken orally for purposes with no relation to hair growth.